When Science and Textiles Meet in a Bright Student

We are excited to have one of our students showcased in Jefferson's newsletter, The Nexus. The following is an excerpt from an article by Mike Bederka about Heather Kelly, a graduate student in the Textile Design program. Heather's interests call back to our beginnings as the Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science, where textiles and science intersected and fruited in innovation.

"For a decade, Heather Kelly dived into her analytical strengths and worked in Jefferson’s microbiology lab as a lead technologist. She loved the behind-the-scenes aspects of health care, performing routine bacteriology, mycology and mycobacteriology and eventually moving into specialized cultures.

As her skills progressed, the lab also adopted more advanced methods to accelerate the diagnosis of critical infections like sepsis or meningitis. Kelly says she thrived on being on the frontlines of validating these rapid molecular methods, but at the same time, the technological evolution swirling around her inspired self-reflection.

Maybe Kelly needed a similar shakeup with her career?

“It fueled me to seek out new avenues,” she recalls. 

Kelly always enjoyed knitting; however, she considered it a hobby, not a job possibility. That is, until she took a weaving workshop with Jefferson textile design program director Marcia Weiss, who answered Kelly’s questions about the field and opened her eyes to its potential. 

“I saw how equally technical it was,” says Kelly, noting textiles could feed her creative spirit as well. “It was a great intersection of the things I love the most.”  

Kelly enrolled in Jefferson’s MS in textile design program in the fall, but she admits she struggled at first with the switch. “Do I just have to give up these past 10 years of my career?” she thought. 

Fortunately, learning about Jefferson’s work with hemp, especially in high-performance apparel and textiles, medical devices and wearable technologies, nudged aside any doubts. With these new opportunities, she could meld her healthcare experience and growing textile knowledge.

“It was a sign,” she says. “This is exactly what I want to be doing.”"

Heather has already made a strong impression in the studio with her analytical approach to design. We look forward to seeing what she comes up with in the future.

Read the full article here.

Textile Design Reception in NYC was a rousing success!

We are happy to report that we had a fantastic time at the Textile Design Reception held at the beautiful Waterworks showroom in the Flatiron district of Manhatten. So many talented and successful alumni and friends of the department came out to see the work of our current graduate students.

The Waterworks Showroom was a beautiful setting for a night of catching up and trading stories. We were proud to display the works of graduate students Ben Jones, Jiyoung Park, Emily Reppert, Jackie Moore, and Lauren Brauninger as well as the work of undergraduates, Sophia Turco, and Ollie Pagnotta.

Among our esteemed guests were L. Tadd and Sandy Schwab, Steven Roberts, CEO of the Echo Design Group, Liora Manne, and Susan Toporowski, Head of Home Design at Macy's. Lichtenberg came out in full force and was represented by Jim Geise, Sr Account Exec, Scott Goldstein, President, Amy Hanlon, Sr Vice President of Design, and Holly Slavin, Director of Design.

Last but certainly not least, we are honored and grateful to our wonderful host, Deanna Amorello '02, M'04. Deanna generously hosted this truly lovely evening.

Emily Reppert explaining her process of making her interesting wovens.

Marcia Weiss, Director of the Fashion & Textiles Futures Center chatting with Mike Leonard, Dean of the School of Design and Engineering.

Dobby samples woven by Emily Reppert.

Machine-knit scarves by Lauren Brauninger, woven jacquards by Jiyoung Park, print by Jackie Moore.

Prints by Sophia Turco and Oliva Pagnotta.

Woven jacquards by Jiyoung Park.

Interview Series: Emily Reppert

Next up in our Student Interview Series is Emily Reppert. Emily is a weaver with a background in print design. Hear her tell her design story in her own words. She'll be graduating this December with her Master's of Science in Textile Design. 

Science has always been at the root of what has inspired my art as well as design. In the past, I was attracted to the “rule breaking” theories of quantum mechanics and groundbreaking processes like CRISPR gene editing. I have also been inspired by the oddities of nature born from the lack of light and resources in the depths of the ocean. More recently I began to reflect on why I keep returning to science as a subject. As defined, science is a process which allows for better understanding of the environment that surrounds us through the use of a clear structure. We rely on science as a given, a truth. However, science as we understand it today, did not always exist. Alchemy was the precursor to science and was known as an art form. These topics are scientific in theme, but have an underlying intrigue that is more akin to the mystical and philosophical. Taking this into consideration I have shifted my current focus to look at the scientific process as a whole and specifically the precursor to science, alchemy.I interpret these concepts through the use of jacquards and dobby wovens incorporating techniques such as pile, cut floats, and deflected picks. I also experiment with materiality by utilizing elastomeric and unusual materials including metal, pipe cleaners, and latex.

 How did you choose Textile Design as a major?

I was interested in learning how to take print artwork and transform it into a woven textile. Jefferson was one of the only schools I found that had hands-on learning with not only Jacquard programs such as EAT and Pointcarre, but also the opportunity to weave on multiple industry looms on-site. Overall I felt the M.S in Textile Design program provided the technical and creative skills I would need to succeed in the industry.

 Do you have a background in design or textiles?

I have a BFA in Crafts with a focus in Fibers and an Art History Minor from Tyler School of Art of Temple University. I had also worked as a CAD/Print designer for Iron Mountains LLC for 7 years prior to attending Jefferson’s M.S. Textile Design program.

Tell us about the colours, landscapes, artists, or architecture that inspire your design work.

In the past, I have found color inspiration from unusual sources such as bacterial cultures, creatures that arise from the depths of the ocean, and tiny sea slugs called nudibranchs. I have also been drawn to the subtle and deep brilliance of colors that occur in low light situations after seeing the fantastic exhibition, Dark, at MASS MoCA. More recently, I have been looking at works by the artist Alexandar Calder and his use of motion and play in The Circus (1927).

What is your favourite book of all time?

 A Wrinkle in Time by Madeleine L'Engle. I read it in the fourth grade, and it was the first time a book really got my imagination going. The book also involved the concept of time travel through the 5^th dimension beyond that of time, the 4^th dimension. Science continues to be a source of inspiration for my designs to this day.

Which design from your portfolio are you most proud of, or is most special to you?

I had the opportunity to collaborate with a fashion design student, Tommy Heidebrecht, and create a custom textile for his senior collection. What we developed together was beyond what either of us could have come up with on our own. The textiles themselves were two mirrored 60” engineered jacquards for the pants and a wool crepe double cloth fabric created for the top. His collection was chosen to walk at NYFW, and I had the opportunity to go and witness it first-hand. It was amazing!

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What would you like to be doing in 5 years?

I would love to be working as a fabric or rug designer for home textiles. More specifically, my dream is to be able to create the technical files for textiles that are made right here in the United States. The number of textile manufacturing mills remaining in the U.S are small, but they exist! 

What is your favorite thing to do to distract yourself from school stress?

I like to escape to the Wissahickon Valley Park trails! Just a few feet from school is a whole network of dirt and gravel trails in the woods surrounding Wissahickon Creek. A walk is nice, but to be able to hike deep in the woods is stress relief on a whole other level.