Monday, September 28, 2009

Bamboo - not an eco-friendly choice


A quick google search on bamboo will give you ample marketing hype for this recently ‘hot’ fiber choice.

About.com – knitting – states:

 

Bamboo knitting yarn is a relatively new entry in the knitting world, but it has become quite popular very quickly, and with good reason. Bamboo is a beautiful natural fiber that wears well and is a natural antibacterial.

Bamboo is a grass that is harvested and distilled into cellulose that is then spun into the yarn.

Positive Things About Bamboo Yarn

Bamboo is a renewable resource. Bamboo can be harvested without killing the plant, and it only takes a few months before the plant is ready to be harvested again. That makes it an environmentally friendly choice.

Bamboo yarn, when not mixed with unnatural fibers, is biodegradable.

Bamboo yarn is often dyed with more natural dyes that are safer for the environment.

Bamboo fabric is naturally antibacterial.

Bamboo also has ultra-violet protective properties.

Fabric knitted with bamboo is quite breathable and cool and has great drape.

Bamboo has a good luster, similar to mercerized cotton.

Bamboo is strong, flexible, and can be softer than silk when spun into yarn.

 

Potential Bamboo Negatives

Bamboo yarn loses strength when it is wet and swells considerably in water.

The yarn may not be very cohesive. Some brands split much more than others.

Bamboo needs to be hand-washed, so it isn't a great choice for things that need to be washed frequently.

 

So – environmentally friendly & safer for the environment? Whilst this may be true in terms of using a speedily renewable resource, the processing implications associated with bamboo are anything other than green.

 

 From - Bamboo: Facts behind the Fiber

http://organicclothing.blogs.com/my_weblog/2007/09/bamboo-facts-be.html

Most bamboo fabric that is the current eco-fashion rage is chemically manufactured by “cooking” the bamboo leaves and woody shoots in strong chemical solvents such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH – also known as caustic soda or lye) and carbon disulfide in a process also known as hydrolysis alkalization combined with multi-phase bleaching. Both sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide have been linked to serious health problems. Breathing low levels of carbon disulfide can cause tiredness, headache and nerve damage. Carbon disulfide has been shown to cause neural disorders in workers at rayon manufacturers. Low levels of exposure to sodium hydroxide can cause irritation of the skin and eyes. Sodium hydroxide is a strong alkaline base also known as caustic soda or lye. In its dry crystalline form, caustic soda is one of the major ingredients of Drano. This is basically the same process used to make rayon from wood or cotton waste byproducts. Because of the potential health risks and damage to the environment surrounding the manufacturing facilities, textile manufacturing processes for bamboo or other regenerated fibers using hydrolysis alkalization with multi-phase bleaching are not considered sustainable or environmentally supportable.

 

Last month the FTC (Federal Trade Commission) issued the following consumer alert –

www.ftc.gov/bcp/edu/pubs/consumer/alerts/alt160.shtm

Have You Been Bamboozled by Bamboo Fabrics?

Looking to be a more environmentally conscious shopper? You’ve probably heard about bamboo. Bamboo stands out for its ability to grow quickly with little or no need for pesticides, and it is used in a variety of products, from flooring to furniture. But when it comes to soft bamboo textiles, like shirts or sheets, there’s a catch: they’re actually rayon.

The Federal Trade Commission, the nation’s consumer protection agency, wants you to know that the soft “bamboo” fabrics on the market today are rayon. They are made using toxic chemicals in a process that releases pollutants into the air. Extracting bamboo fibers is expensive and time-consuming, and textiles made just from bamboo fiber don’t feel silky smooth.

There’s also no evidence that rayon made from bamboo retains the antimicrobial properties of the bamboo plant, as some sellers and manufacturers claim. Even when bamboo is the “plant source” used to create rayon, no traits of the original plant are left in the finished product.

Companies that claim a product is “bamboo” should have reliable evidence, like scientific tests and analyses, to show that it’s made of actual bamboo fiber.

The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive, and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop, and avoid them.

 

 

In March 2009, ecotextile.com published the following new regulations from Canada –

"news@ecotextile.com"

Bamboo textiles under spotlight

 

OTTAWA – [11.03.09] Bamboo textiles produced under the man-made viscose process and sold in Canada will have to mention ‘rayon’ on all labelling and product advertising under new government authority guidelines.

The Canadian Competition Bureau (CCB) says the new move follows an increase in the amount of textiles entering Canada that are being labelled as made from bamboo. The CCB now wants textile manufacturers, importers and retailers to comply with the country’s Textile Labelling Act (TLA) and the Textile Labelling and Advertising Regulations (TLAR) as they apply to bamboo fabric.

The TTLA and the TLAR are statutes relating to the labelling, sale, importation and advertising of consumer textile articles in Canada, which require textiles to be labelled accurately.

To help retailers, brands and importers the CCB has published a document entitled: Guidance on Labelling Textile Articles Derived from Bamboo to assist the textile supply chain deal with compliance in Canada. While many products are labelled ‘bamboo’, CCB says this is not an acceptable generic name for a textile fibre unless natural bamboo has been mechanically processed in a manner similar to the process for making flax into linen-like fabrics. Most of the ‘bamboo’ products currently in the Canadian market are said to be man-made fibre derived from bamboo pulp using a chemical process.

In future, where an item of clothing or textile is made of man-made rayon fibres derived from bamboo, the generic fibre name must first make reference to either “rayon” or the corresponding process outlined in the TLAR, followed by the words “from bamboo”. Examples of acceptable generic names include “rayon”, “viscose”, “rayon from bamboo” and “viscose from bamboo”.

The CCB says until 31st August that existing stocks of ‘bamboo’ textile articles that were in production, manufactured, labelled or packaged, in the ordinary course of business, prior to March 11, 2009 can be sold. After August 31, the Bureau will conduct marketplace surveillance to ensure full compliance with the TLA.

 

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Digital Printing Technology Meets Art: A Vibrant Spectacle of Color.

Heather Ujiie – Cry Wolf  


2008 Digital inkjet print on cotton,

7 panels: 48"w x132"h.

Installation @ 40 ft wide x 11 ft high.


The Galleries at Moore

20th Street and the Parkway

Philadelphia PA 19103

September 11 – October 17, 2009 




Philadelphia University's adjunct professor of Print Design, 

Heather Ujiie, creates large-scale allegorical designs that are digitally 

printed on fabric. Her new work on view at Moore is based on a 19th 

century Toile de Jouy textile where she isolates a single scene from a 

repeat pattern and manipulates its color, scale, and surface, to print a 

magical neon world of mystery and conflict. 

Ujiie’s process is a fusion of several methods including painting, 

printmaking, and digital media. She creates an original artwork, either a 

painting or drawing, then scans it and digitally alters it. Cry Wolf started 

with a commissioned toile wall covering which the artist hand drew 

from a 19th century toile fabric. After scanning her handmade original, 

she manipulated the drawing with Photoshop software to achieve the 

commissioned wallpaper’s meticulous details and textures. The large-scale 

work on fabric was then printed using a state-of-the-art digital ink jet 

printer. This technology is capable of producing very large-scale prints and 

enormous color variations that otherwise could not be achieved with 

conventional techniques – in this case, a vibrant spectacle of color. 

Artist Statement 

I have always been fascinated by traditional Toile de Jouy textile prints which 

historically have portrayed vignettes of heroic deeds and mythic scenes of 

battle. The detailed narratives poignantly represent the human condition 

through scenes rich in allegory and symbolism. 

When I was a child growing up in New York City, we often visited the medieval 

Cloisters Museum, where The Unicorn Tapestries displayed the mythological 

hunt and capture of the unicorn. The magic of these immense woven narratives, 

and the vivid accuracy of botanical and human anatomy, created a sense awe 

and wonderment that has always stayed with me to this day. In my latest 

installation, “Cry Wolf ” inspired by my experience as a youth, I have attempted 

to go beyond a historic textile sensibility, into the realm of magic, wonder, and 

theatrical splendor. 

I hope my digitally printed textile installation ignites deep spiritual forays into 

the imagination, and generates personal reflection on what is hidden, weather 

it be our own personal demons, or our lust for life.


Monday, September 21, 2009

Design Philadelphia

The largest national design celebration of its kind, DesignPhiladelphia 2009 is less than three weeks away!


The countdown is on! Clear your schedules and plan to explore the city 

through the lens of design. Join us for more than 125 exhibitions, 

lectures, open studios, workshops, book signings, and special events.

Start planning now - visit the website to check out the calendar and pick up an 

event guide at various locations throughout the city starting September 25th.

For the current program calendar, visit www.designphiladelphia.org

Students, recent graduates, and young professionals - looking for ways to get involved in the design community? Look no further, volunteer to help at DesignPhiladelphia! We're looking for volunteers - if interested please email info@designphiladelphia.org

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Day of Service


On September 15th, Philadelphia University held a Day of Service.

www.philau.edu/DayofService

Classes were cancelled & students were invited to join one of many different service projects organized through the university.

The textile design department hosted two different in-house projects throughout the day.

Students worked in the knitting lab. producing dozens of red scarves. These will be donated to the Red Scarf Project, an 'initiative to warm the hearts (and necks) of college-bound foster youth'. The scarves will be sent to these students as a part of Valentine's Day care packages. 

orphan.org/index.php?id=40






Even the University President had a go on a knitting machine.







Students also worked in the screen printing lab. printing t-shirts for the City of Philadelphia Mural Arts Program - Finding Home Project. The Finding Home mural project is part of the Porch Light Initiative, a collaboration between the City of Philadelphia Mural Arts Program and the City of Philadelphia Department of Behavioral Health that illuminates important struggles and offers hope for recovery. 

www.muralarts.org

Lace in Translation


If you have been on Henry Avenue recently, you may have noticed a remarkable new addition to the front lawn of The Design Center at Philadelphia University. A 170-foot “lace” chain-link fence, by the Dutch design studio Demakersvan, has been installed as part of the new exhibition Lace in Translation, opening Thursday, Sept. 24.

An opening reception will be held on Thursday, Sept. 24 from 5 to 7:30 p.m. The reception will be free and open to the campus community and the public.

For more information, visit the exhibit's official website at www.LaceInTranslation.com.

Foamex Challenges Design Students


Representatives from Foamex Innovations  visited Philadelphia University on Thursday with a unique competition for our design students.
Foamex is a local company which manufactures memory foam products. As Jennifer Frank (Textile Design, class of 1996) explained, selling memory foam is rather like selling orthopedic shoes, everyone knows its very comfortable and good for you, but wheres the fun. The students have been challenged to turn a memory foam product into a 'stiletto pump'.
Textile students will be able to team with up to three other students from any majors, to produce a story board for a new memory foam product for the bedding area.
The top five designs will win prize money and have their designs fabricated over the semester break.
The grand prize winners will have the opportunity to present their product at the ISPA (International Sleep Products Association) show in Charlotte, NC at the FXI booth in March 2010.

Further information on Foamex can be found at www.fxi.com  

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Semester Kick Off Open House


The Textile Design department kicked off the 09/10 academic year with a pizza party for all our new students in our newly renovated design studio.
This year we are welcoming nearly forty new students into our group. Thirteen new graduate students, twenty new freshman and five who have transferred from other majors into Textile Design. Welcome to all our new students and we wish you all success upon your journey through our Textile Design program.